Julia Baird, John Lennon's younger sister, has walked the English Way and stopped at 'Casa Avelina', a bar and shop in As Travesas (Carral) run by Carmen and Avelina.
Julia Baird, the younger sister of the legendary John Lennon, has set foot in Galicia. She did so like many other pilgrims: with a backpack, credential, and the intention of completing the English Way. Her passage through the small area of As Travesas, in the municipality of Carral (A Coruña), did not go unnoticed. There, at the crossroads connecting the routes of Ferrol and A Coruña, 'Casa Avelina' awaited her, an establishment that serves as a shop, bar, and tobacco store, run by two women who could well be the 21st-century Good Samaritans: Carmen and Avelina.
A stop on the English Way: Julia Baird and the hospitality of 'Casa Avelina'
On July 4, with temperatures rising, the stage between Betanzos and Mesón do Vento becomes the highlight of the English Way. After overcoming the legendary Cuesta de Vizoño and the Beche reservoir, pilgrims find a haven of peace in As Travesas. There, Carmen and Avelina have been offering water, conversation, and, if needed, transport to the hospital for years. Lennon’s sister was no exception: she dropped by the establishment, signed the guestbook, and chatted with the locals, according to sources from the venue.
For residents of Majadahonda and the rest of the Community of Madrid, the news may seem distant, but the English Way attracts hundreds of walkers from all over Spain and abroad each year. Many of them, like Julia Baird, seek the authenticity of small rural businesses. 'Casa Avelina' is an example of how a roadside bar can become a must-stop for those seeking the Compostela, the diploma certifying that one has walked at least 100 kilometres on foot (200 by bike or 300 on horseback).
The legacy of John Lennon on the Way: a meeting with history
Julia Baird is not just any tourist. She is the younger sister of John Lennon and a custodian of part of his legacy. Her presence on the English Way, which is named after the British pilgrims who arrived in Santiago from the islands, has a touch of poetic justice. The English Way is shorter than the French Way, but it requires stamping the credential at various stops. 'Casa Avelina' is one of them, and its guestbook accumulates names of both anonymous and well-known figures. Julia Baird is, according to those who attended to her, "an authentically English spirit on the eponymous Way," as reported by journalist Vicente Araguas.
Lennon's sister is not the only celebrity to have passed through there, but her visit holds special significance. For music lovers and fans of 20th-century history, knowing that the sister of the genius from Liverpool has walked the same paths as thousands of anonymous pilgrims adds a layer of mythology to the Way. And for the residents of Carral, it is a source of pride that their small establishment has hosted a figure so closely tied to pop culture.
More than a bar: 'Casa Avelina' is a living museum on the English Way
But 'Casa Avelina' is not just a bar. It is a living museum, filled with memories and objects that tell stories. Carmen, besides running the business, is the caretaker of the nearby hermitage of San Roque, the patron saint of pilgrims and dogs. There, walkers can stamp their credentials and receive a blessing before continuing. Manolo, a returning emigrant from Switzerland, is another character that brings the place to life: he serves Italian-speaking pilgrims and does not hesitate to drive those who get injured on the Cuesta de Vizoño.
For those from Madrid planning to do the English Way, stopping in As Travesas is almost mandatory. It is located at kilometre 2 after passing a mink farm (often vandalised by activists releasing exotic species, such as Florida turtles, which harm the local ecosystem). The place is easily recognisable by its welcoming atmosphere and terrace, where pilgrims recharge with a coffee or a cold beer. And who knows, perhaps they will sit in the same chair where John Lennon’s sister once was.
The English Way continues to gain followers, and Julia Baird's visit will only increase its popularity. For those who have already done it, it is a confirmation that the spirit of the Way remains alive. For those who have yet to be encouraged, it is a push to lace up their boots and start walking. And for those who cannot travel, there is always reading: journalist Vicente Araguas has narrated this story in his column 'Volver a Samaria', comparing Carmen and Avelina to the Good Samaritans of the Gospel. A metaphor that, in this case, is not exaggerated: in an increasingly digital world, the hospitality of flesh and blood remains the best attraction.
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