The Madrid entrepreneur Román Gil, after leaving law, has opened three gastronomic concepts: Açaí San, Chez Pepito, and the taquería La Marquesa, the latter in Malasaña. His commitment to quality products and traditional cuisine marks a new phase in the capital's hospitality sector.
Madrid continues to establish itself as a gastronomic capital, and one of its new flag bearers is Román Gil, an entrepreneur who has managed to turn his passion for cooking into three successful businesses. After studying Law and working as a lawyer in an international firm, Gil decided to make a radical career change and venture into the restaurant industry. Today, with Açaí San, Chez Pepito, and the newly opened La Marquesa, he represents a generation of hospitality professionals who focus on product quality, identity, and closeness.
The leap was not improvised. Gil began organising dinners and catering during university, alongside a Mallorcan friend. "I started almost without realising it: at university, I organised dinners and catering with Lorenzo, more for fun than for business," he recalls. Those experiences awakened a vocation that, after graduating, remained dormant while he worked at an international law firm. "I liked the job, but my true passion has always been cooking; I even like it more than eating, if that's possible," he confesses.
From law to the kitchen: the birth of Açaí San and Chez Pepito
The definitive step came after a brief stint at a restaurant startup. Shortly after, Açaí San was born, his first project, which will celebrate its fourth anniversary in 2026 and is entering a new phase of maturation. "Now it's time for a second phase: to mature the concept and see how far it can go. I just hope the açaí trend lasts a little longer," he jokes. Just a year later, he opened Chez Pepito, which already has three locations in Madrid and is in a consolidation phase. "The idea is to keep growing, but without rushing and with a clear head," he explains.
But the project that excites him the most right now is La Marquesa, a taquería in the heart of Malasaña that recently opened its doors. There, he champions the traditional Mexican taco, with handmade nixtamalised corn tortillas and a short menu focused on quality ingredients. "I have always been passionate about Mexican food and wanted to pay a small tribute to it with this project. Without pretensions, seeking quality, everything homemade," he states.
La Marquesa: signature tacos in the heart of Malasaña
At La Marquesa, the tortilla and meat are the absolute stars. The menu offers five tacos that get straight to the point: ribeye, picaña al trompo, chorizo stew, asada, and cochino, and carnitas. All of them can be topped with a crust of Oaxaca cheese. Diners have the freedom to customise their taco with salsas and toppings: roasted chiles, green tomatillo salsa, pickled onion, or a red morita salsa. Special mention goes to the burnt habanero salsa, with a smoky and spicy touch that has become the restaurant's hallmark. Additionally, La Marquesa offers a corkage service: you can bring your own bottle, and they will serve it in fine glassware.
Gil is not satisfied with what he has. "I have more ideas swirling in my head for the future, if all goes well," he hints. In the meantime, he balances his restaurants with gastronomic consultancy work and some catering or private dinners when his schedule allows.
An entrepreneur's perspective on Madrid's gastronomy
Román Gil is critical of the sector. He acknowledges that Madrid has undergone a tremendous transformation in the last decade, but believes it still needs to solidify a stronger identity. "Madrid has raised its game significantly, but we still have a way to go compared to cities like Barcelona, London, or New York," he states. In his opinion, the boom in openings has brought both positives and negatives. "There has been an explosion of openings, yes, but, as painful as it is to say, few have truly made me enjoy myself."
Gil also detects a hopeful trend: a return to tradition. "I think at some point we lost our way and placed more importance on how beautiful the venue was than on the quality of the product. Fortunately, it seems that new openings are betting on more traditional concepts and product quality," he points out. Another pending challenge is the professionalisation of the sector. "When you travel abroad, you realise that we are not as good as we think we are. There is plenty of talent and eagerness; what is lacking is to land it and execute it well."
Despite everything, he remains optimistic. "I have the feeling that Madrid is going to make a big leap in the coming years, and I am very excited to see it," he concludes. And while that leap arrives, Madrileños can already enjoy their tacos at La Marquesa, the bowls at Açaí San, or the classics at Chez Pepito. Because, as he himself says, "cooking is my passion, and being able to share it with people is the best thing that has happened to me."
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